Fine men's bespoke and made to measure tailoring

How to wear a suit – the right way!

Aug 26 2013

It hasn’t been a good couple of months for Labour leader, Ed Miliband. Not only is he having to contend with the fury of Unite leader Len McCluskey over his plans to change how union members fund the Labour Party, but last week he became the victim of an egg pelting.

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And to top it all, 51% of voters say they do not like him – oh dear!

But in my view, he has far more serious things to worry about and should be concerned by the fact he isn’t wearing his suit properly.

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Every picture I see of him, I notice he fastens the lower button on his jacket instead, as it should be, just the top button.  If he wants to look like a Prime Minister in waiting, he needs to sort himself out and quickly.

Having been a made to measure tailor in North London for many years, I always tell my clients that the lower button on a suit jacket is just for show as the front of a jacket starts to curve away from this point once it is fastened and may cause tightness across the front – not a good look.

This is just one of the tips I give my customers. I often have to explain to them the finer points of how a suit should fit – it can make such a difference to how they look.

1. How can I make an impression?


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If you want to own the room as soon as you walk in, then you need to be wearing a perfectly fitting suit.  There is nothing like a first impression and it can make all the difference to what you want to do.

For instance, some years ago whilst on a beach holiday, I pulled myself away from the side of the pool, threw on my shorts and t-shirt to go into a neighbouring five star hotel to book a table for dinner.

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I approached the maître d’ of the restaurant and asked if I could book a table. He quickly advised that the restaurant for that night was full.

An hour later, I telephoned the restaurant to check availability for that evening and surprise surprise, I was able to book a table!

First impressions do count and you literally have seconds to get it right. If you want to learn how to wear a suit the right way, then you need to understand all the components of a suit.

2. How do I get the perfect fit?

When buying a made to measure suit in the UK, you need to pay attention to every aspect of the suit and how it fits your body. A made to measure suit should never just ‘hang’ on the shoulders – like it would if you bought it from the High Street.

Here is my step by step guide of what to look for when buying a bespoke suit:

The shoulders – a good suit should hug your shoulders and you in a firm, friendly way.

The collar – this should rise up about halfway on the shirt’s collar. If there is a space between the two, then this is not a good fit.

The gorge – this is where the lapels meet to create a V. Shorter men should get fitted with a high-gorge while tall men should get fitted with a low-gorge.

The lapel – nothing defines a suit louder than the lapels.

The pocket – wear your top pocket square to that all the attention is focussed on your chest and not your belly.

The sleeve – this is where you need to think about width. You should make sure these are tailored for a more sculpted look.

The buttons – as they say twos company, threes a crowd. Foolproof low buttons build a long, slim look.

Sleeve buttons – these should be functional as well as decorative. Leave a button undone if the suit was custom tailored for you. If you don’t, it won’t look right because sleeve buttons are designed to contribute to the slimming look of a jacket.

Sleeve buttons were designed to enable the sleeve to be rolled up, either for writing with a quill pen, or like in the old films where a Victorian doctor is washing his hands after being with a patient.

Jacket pockets – straight pockets really suit those with a larger build and are more traditional. However, slant pockets which have a slight upward angle are good choice.

Flaps – this gives your jacket a classic look.

Trousers – these should be trim with a flat-front but do make sure they stop at the top of your shoes.

3. What finishing touches can I add?

The tie – this is often the first thing that someone will notice about you. Try and keep it classy and bold and make sure it ends at your belt line. No longer, no shorter! Tuck the short end into the loop at the back of the tie.

A watch – every bespoke suit should have a timeless accessory so don’t skimp on the watch. A good tip is to consider a vintage model to finish off your look.

Shoes – I believe every man should own a pair of black lace-ups with real leather soles – anything less is unacceptable. Dress shoes should be as contoured as your suit and make sure you stay away from square toes.

4. Will this boost my confidence?

In my view, as a made to measure tailor in North London, a well-tailored suit will give you confidence like nothing else in your wardrobe.

When you have dressed for the part, you need to make sure you play the part so walk tall, stand to attention and control the space you exist in. What are you waiting for?

Have you ever found a made to measure suit has changed your life? Did it boost your confidence? How would you advise Ed Miliband to wear his suit?









Category: Bespoke Suits, Business Suits, Designer Suits, made to measure, Suits, Tailoring Advice, Uncategorized

What is garment engineering?

Jul 12 2012

Following the article about me in the Natwest business magazine I received an email from Morgan Gustafson to say hello after losing contact many years ago. In 1979 Morgan changed my whole perception of the clothing industry. Our factory at the time was manufacturing garments in the traditional way, the same as most UK factories at that time. We decided to engage the services of Erikson Associates who were Swedish clothing consultants and Morgan had the task of engineering the garment production and also persuding our employees and middle management that there was a more efficient way of manufacturing garments. The biggest fear we had at the time was the fear of changing from the comfort of what we had to that of something very different. The easiest way to describe garment engineering is to compare it to building a motor car. Imagine cutting out the pieces of steel and then chopping bits off to make the sections fit together. it would be logical and efficient to cut everything correctly in the first place.

Category: Bespoke Suits, made to measure, Suit Cloth, Uncategorized

A free Corby trouser press

Jan 07 2011

Many customers ask me about how to look after their new made to measure suit and I always suggest that they should invest in a trouser press to retain a sharp crease in their trousers. It is in my interest to make sure that every garment will last as long as possible and therefore represent better value for money.
I regard each tailored suit, jacket trouser or even a made to measure shirt as an investment by the customer and to look after the investment I am for a short period giving away a free Corby trouser press with each made to measure suit.
If this sounds to good to be true just email me via the contact form on the website and I will call or email you personally.

Category: Tailoring Advice, Uncategorized

2011 some things won’t change

Jan 06 2011

Welcome to our new website and also to the new year which promises to be  challenging but also a year of business opportunities . Read More

Category: Tailoring Advice, Uncategorized


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