Fine men's bespoke and made to measure tailoring

The art of the garment designer

Jun 16 2011

There is a certain mystic attached to garment designers and pattern cutters. We all read about the famous clothing designers who influence how we dress and how we buy our clothes.

A garment designer is like any artist, full of imagination and original creative ideas in their respective fields.

Once a designer creates a style the pattern cutter takes over and cuts the actual pattern. Many pattern cutters are brilliant at interpreting an existing style rather than being creative in their own right. An example is the copying of Kate Middleton’s wedding dress.

Today computers have made pattern cutting much easier, but the designer still needs to have an understanding of the basics of how garments are constructed and of the dimensions of the human body.

Computers can now be far more accurate than traditional hand cutting methods. In fact having a part made jacket fitting is to compensate for any errors in the original hand cutting of the cloth.

Our measuring and cutting system uses master model try on garments that give the customer a fitting before their garments are actually cut out. The master model is a replica of the pattern in the computer system. By looking to see how this fits the wearer we can adjust the posture, chest, shoulders plus numerous other adjustments to the actual fit of the garment.
An accurate bespoke pattern is then created by the computer. The fabric is then cut out robotically.

Any other method of cutting made to measure garments is not as accurate especially if a pattern is drafted by hand.

I do realise that some ‘tailors’ may not agree with me, but my comments are based on a lifetime’s experience of working in the clothing industry.

Many years ago when I was a student at what is now the Leeds Metropolitan University I did learn how to draft garment patterns by hand whilst studying for my City & Guilds exams in wholesale bespoke tailoring. This early experience together with learning garment construction on the factory floor gave me a ‘buzz’ for the clothing industry which is still with me today.

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Category: Designer Suits, Tailoring Advice

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